Sunday, February 16, 2014

Dovbush Path

A trip to Dovbush Rocks is a good idea for travelers who want to spend time at the mountains without long hikes and extra physical efforts. The rocks are located in 10 minutes drive from Yaremche and could be reached by car. The rocky chain is an unique place which appeared million years ago. The rocks were named after the legendary Ukrainian hero Oleksa Dovbush, the leader of opryshky's bands. This hero is compared with a famous English folklore character – Robin Hood. You will get a lot of pleasant emotions while hiking and jumping from rock to rock.
   There are many places in the Carpathian Mountains that are called Dovbush Rocks.




Olexa Dovbush was born into this freedom loving community, just at the time, when Ukraine as a whole was undergoing the convulsions of a country-wide rebellion: after the defeat of Ivan Mazeppa at the hands of Peter the 1st of Russia ((Stephan's note...1709 the Battle of Poltava where Ukrainian Cossacks, allied with Sweden's King Charles the XII were defeated by a combined Russian and Ukrainian Cossack Army led by Peter the Great)), the last vestiges of the Kozak freedoms were being dismantled in the East by the Russians, in the West by the Poles, both of which were tightening their grip on the Ukrainian lands and making over the formerly free villagers into serfs, in effect complete slaves of the foreign overlords. A major rebellion erupted in the Eastern Ukraine (known as Koliivschyna, or hajdamaky), while in the Western Ukraine there appeared a movement known as opryshki.
Opryshki originally meant highway robbers, because that is how the foreign landowners characterized the rebellious bands. But to the common villagers, the opryshki were champions of their freedom and independence, their heroes, their leaders in the largely hopeless struggle for existence. The opryshki movement spread in the Carpathians (the regions of Hutzulshchyna, Boikivshchyna, Pokuttia), but also in the lowlands - Podillia, where a famous opryshko by the name Maksym Karmeliuk became very well-known. But nowhere were the opryshko bands as widespread, as in the freedom loving Hutzulshchyna.
Oleksa Dovbush joined the opryshki in 1738, together with his brother, Ivan. Soon he was the leader of his own band of 30-50 leheni (young men), making daring raids on the palaces and castles of the rich foreign landowners ((Stephan's note...Primarily Polish but occasionally Hungarian; Dovbush was also known to have once operated in Dovzhytsya and Vetlyna close to the border of the Boyko and Lemko lands)), robbing and killing them and their servants, and then spreading the acquired wealth to the poor people of the land. In particular, he was known for punishing those landowners and their lackeys, who were notorious for their cruelty towards the villagers. At the complaint of a victim, Dovbush would capture the miscreant and hold a regular trial over the accused. Usually, such trial ended in the execution of the foreign magnate. Any confiscated treasures would go to the victims. Soon Dovbush became the greatest hero to the local population, and a threat to the foreign aristocracy, who labeled him a terrorist, a robber, a brigand. But to the common people, he was the savior, the avenger, the knight in shining armor. Numerous legends appeared about him, songs were composed, fables were written. Portraits of Dovbush were sold at the marketplaces. He was idolized and revered. Notice, that there were two elements to his fame and notoriety. On the one hand, there was the social aspect: Dovbush was the hero of the downtrodden masses of common folk, who defended them from the evil landowners and their minions. On the other hand, he was a national hero of the Ukrainians (or Ruthenians, as they called themselves at that time). He was fighting for the independence of the country and the nation against the foreign occupiers. Undoubtedly, he was also a robber, a highwayman, par excellence (as was Robin Hood). The range of activities of the small Dovbush band gradually spread, not only throughout the Hutzul lands, but also into the Pokuttia and Podillia regions. The occupying government, at the requests of the foreign landlords, organized large military expeditions against Dovbush. Some such expeditions consisted of over 2,000 well armed troops and were led by the Polish crown prince J. Potocki. But still, Dovbush managed to escape every trap, evade every encirclement, and continue to bring terror and fear to the noblemen.. This was mostly due to the help received from the common people, but also to undoubted military capabilities of Oleksa Dovbush himself.
According to the prevalent legend, Dovbush met his end in 1745, in Kosmach, due to a vengeful girlfriend, by the name of Dzvinka, who, in a fit of jealousy, betrayed him to his enemies. It is not clear, if there is any truth to this legend, or if it is simply the product of the Romantic-era imagination. But the story is repeated, with many variations, in numerous folk songs, tales, ballads, legends ,and other folk art. The story of Oleksa Dovbush is also the subject of numerous novels, poems, dramas, operas, and other works of literature, theater and music. Such famous Ukrainian writers as I. Franko, Yu. Fedkovych and many others wrote about him. He is also the subject of sculptures, graphics, paintings, movies, ballets, and various other works of art. Oleksa Dovbush left his imprint also on the Ukrainian geography: there exist Dovbush Caverns (where people still look for buried treasure), and the famous Dovbush Rock (Kamin Dovbusha, near to the resort town of Yaremche) a huge boulder, which Dovbush, supposedly, threw at his enemies in a fit of rage.  There are also many Dovbush streets and squares throughout Western Ukraine and many other remainders of this folk hero. The Dovbush lands are now a famous resort area. The towns of Yaremche, Dora, Kamin Dovbusha, Voroksta, Kosiv, Kosmach, Verkhovyna, etc. are a beloved summer retreat for the city dwellers from Ukraine and from the neighboring countries. The beautiful hutzul folk art still can be bought there, at the numerous bazaars. Skiing, whitewater rafting, and mountain climbing are the favorite sports.



Saturday, January 11, 2014

CHORTKIV CASTLE


located in Chortkiv, town in Ternopil region of WESTERN UKRAINE
Polish and Austrian place name: Czortkow, Russian name: Chortkov

CHORTKIV CASTLE dates back to 1610
when Chortkiv and whole Western Ukraine
were part of Polish Kingdom) and is situated on the top of a hill on the
bank of the river Seret, which flows south through Chortkiv and is a
tributary of Dniester). It is a stone building and was built as a private
possession on the place of an earlier wooden castle (most of medieval
castles in the area were wooden ones). It was erected of local sandstone
and is regular in plan of five corners. At each corner it was fortified
with towers. Nowadays, we have only defensive walls (which surround the
yard), two towers and palace ruins preserved. Earlier the interior
consisted of stone houses located peripherally. At the same time, the
external walls of these houses served as defensive ones. Out of these
houses we have only numerous cellars left. The main entrance to the
castle was in northern wall.

Bird view Chortkiv Castle 


Palace occupies western side of the interior yard and is rectangular in
plan, joined with two towers at the corners of the castle.
Chortkiv castle is built in Renaissance style and at the yard facade it
had the arch galleries of two floors.




The premises of the lower floor were intended for economic purposes and
were covered with cross-like and semi-compass arches. The entrance to the
living premises of upper floor was through the open staircase, which led
onto the gallery. The halls of the palace were painted with frescoes on
secular themes.




Two preserved towers with their structure come out of the walls line.
South western tower is of five facets and has two circles with a cellar.
North-western tower is of four facets ans has one circle with a cellar
also. Their flooring had been preserved.






At the time of reconstruction of the castle, after it lost its defensive
meaning (in the first half of 18th century) towers were turned into the
thesauri of the palace and at the external facade, a terrace was
arranged between the towers. Also cellar premises (coming out as arches
from the outside) were built under this terrace.
The preservation of castle ruins was made in the beginning of 20 th
century (during Austrian rule) by Podolian Tourist and History Society.
Chortkiv was on the main road junction, open to Tatar and Turkish
invasions from the south east. Thus castle played an important defensive
role before the 18th century (when it lost its defensive purpose and was
reconstructed after the invasions ceased)


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